Salting the squash removes moisture, allowing us to get lots of flavorful browning to enrich this bright, summery dish.

Farfalle with Zucchini, Tomatoes, and Pine Nuts
SERVES 6 VEG
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A combination of pasta and summer squash results in a light, flavorful dish that’s full of color. We decided against peeling the squash, as the skin helped to keep the pieces intact throughout the cooking process. Because summer squash contains so much liquid, we salted and drained it to keep our sauce from ending up watery and bland. The salted squash also browned beautifully; just 5 minutes in a hot skillet gave a light char to each batch. To accompany the squash, we chose halved grape tomatoes, fresh basil, and pine nuts. We finished the sauce with balsamic vinegar to give it a kick and paired the sauce with farfalle, since its nooks and crannies easily trapped the flavor-packed ingredients. A combination of zucchini and summer squash makes for a more colorful dish, but either may be used exclusively if desired. Cherry tomatoes can be substituted for the grape tomatoes. If farfalle is unavailable, campanelle and fusilli are good substitutes. We prefer using kosher salt because residual grains can be easily wiped away from the squash; if using table salt, be sure to reduce all of the salt amounts in the recipe by half.

2 pounds zucchini and/or summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced ½ inch thick
Kosher salt and pepper
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound farfalle
12 ounces grape tomatoes, halved
½ cup chopped fresh basil
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Grated Parmesan cheese

1. Toss squash with 1 tablespoon salt and let drain in colander for 30 minutes. Pat squash dry with paper towels and carefully wipe away any residual salt.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of squash and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and slightly charred, 5 to 7 minutes, reducing heat if skillet begins to scorch; transfer to large plate. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining
squash; transfer to plate.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in squash and cook until heated through, about 30 seconds.
4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add squash mixture, tomatoes, basil, pine nuts, vinegar, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve with Parmesan.

VARIATION
Farfalle with Zucchini, Tomatoes, Olives, and Feta
SERVES 6 VEG
A combination of zucchini and summer squash makes for a more colorful dish, but either may be used exclusively if desired. Cherry tomatoes can be substituted for the grape tomatoes. If farfalle is unavailable, campanelle and fusilli are good substitutes. We prefer using kosher salt because residual grains can be easily wiped away from the squash; if using table salt, be sure to reduce all of the salt amounts in the recipe by half.
2 pounds zucchini and/or summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced ½ inch thick
Kosher salt and pepper
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, chopped fine
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
1 pound farfalle
12 ounces grape tomatoes, halved
½ cup pitted kalamata olives, quartered
¼ cup chopped fresh mint
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 cup)

1. Toss squash with 1 tablespoon salt and let drain in colander for 30 minutes. Pat squash dry with paper towels and carefully wipe away any residual salt.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of squash and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and slightly charred, 5 to 7 minutes, reducing heat if skillet begins to scorch; transfer to large plate. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining squash; transfer to plate.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, lemon zest, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in squash and cook until heated through, about 30 seconds.
4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add squash mixture, tomatoes, olives, mint, vinegar, lemon juice, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve, passing feta seperately.

Spaghetti al Limone
SERVES 6 FAST VEG
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Spaghetti al limone (spaghetti with lemon) is a classic Italian dish in which just a few high-quality ingredients are combined to make a satisfying meal. In our research, we found that some ingredients for this dish were fairly constant: Lemon juice, lemon zest, pasta, and Parmesan cheese were essentials, and extra-virgin olive oil, butter, heavy cream, and basil were variables. Tasters unanimously declared extra-virgin olive oil the winner—it complemented the lemon flavor beautifully. Plus, using oil had the added benefit of streamlining the recipe; we could simply whisk the oil and lemon juice into a vinaigrette that we tossed with the warm pasta just before serving. Two teaspoons of lemon zest boosted the lemon flavor without adding acidity. A little bit of garlic provided depth but didn’t compete with the lemon flavor. Parmesan cheese gave the sauce some body and contributed a nutty flavor that tasters appreciated. Because this recipe is so simple, it is important to use high-quality extra-virgin olive oil, fresh-squeezed lemon juice, and fresh basil here. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste.

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest plus ⅓ cup lemon juice (2 lemons)
1 small garlic clove, minced to paste
Salt and pepper
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)
1 pound spaghetti
6 tablespoons shredded fresh basil
1. Whisk oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in small bowl, then stir in Parmesan until thick and creamy.
2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add oil mixture and basil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve.

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Parmesan
Produced using traditional methods for the past 800 years in one government-designated area of northern Italy, this hard cow’s-milk cheese has a distinctive buttery, nutty, and slightly sharp taste. We frequently reach for it to sprinkle on top of pasta dishes or to add a rich, salty flavor to sauces, soups, and stews.

STORING PARMESAN
We found that the best way to preserve Parmesan’s flavor and texture is to wrap it in parchment paper, then aluminum foil. However, if you have just a small piece of cheese, tossing it in a zipper-lock bag works almost as well; just be sure to squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing the bag.